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G. FERGUSON.

RUBBER SOLE FOR TURN SHOES. APPLICATION FILED JULY 26,1931.

1,312,528. Patented Aug. 12, 1919;

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

GEORGE FERGUSON, 0F WOLLASTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR, BY MESNE ASSIGNMENTS, TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, OF IPATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

RUBBER SOLE FOR TURN-SHOES.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Aug. 12, 1919.

Application filed July 26, 1917. Serial No. 182,942.

To all whom it may concern:

Be known, that I, Gnonon FERGUSON, a citizen of the United States, residing at WOllast n, in the county of Norfolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain Improvements in Rubber Soles for Turn-Shoes, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

The present invention relates to soles for use in the manufacture of boots and shoes of the type known as turn shoes.

Although the advantages of a turn shoe having a vulcanized rubber compound sole are Well recognized, the manufacture of shoes of this type has not been entirely successful due chiefly to the fact that the rubber soles heretofore provided for this purpose failed, in some respects, to meet the requirements of the turn method of making shoes.

The present invention has for a general object to provide an improved vulcanized rubber compound turn sole which will meet all the requirements incident to the production of a serviceable and attractive turn shoe and which may be incorporated in a turn shoe with greater facility and to better advantage than the soles heretofore provided. To this end, an important feature of this invention consists in a rubber sole for turn shoes having a reinforced stitch-receiving element molded along its upper marginal surface and consisting chiefly of fibrous material. As herein shown, the reinforced stitch receiving element comprises two separate layers of fabric, a top layer which preferably extends across the full width of the upper surface of the sole and has its marginal portion projected upwardly to produce the stitch receiving rib and a second layer of canvas material interposed between the top layer and the rubber body, a portion of this latter layer also being projected upwardly, together with the margin of the top layer, whereby a substantially all canvas sewing rib is formed. By providing a reinforced sewing rib for the attachment of the shoe upper to the sole 5. stron er and firmer inseam may be secured. In orming up a sewing rib from rubber and a single layer of fabric, such as canvas, it is difficult to set the two upright Walls of the canvas snugly together and when that is not done the strain of the inseam stitches is borne chiefly by the inner Wall and the stitches have a tendency to cut through it as the stitches are tightened in the sewing operation. By using a reinforce, as for example a second layer or strip of canvas, making four upright walls, a substantially solid rib of canvas is obtained all the walls of which share in resisting the strain of the inseam stitches.

Preferably the lower or interposed layer of canvas is embedded in the rubber body of the sole below the base of the sewing rib and extends laterally from the rib on either side so that it serves to prevent the sewing needle, when attaching a shoe upper to the rib, from digging into the rubber body of the sole below the sewing rib, and in addition it insures the seam being formed in the angle between the sewing rib and the feather of the sole, that is, in the base of the sewing rib, this being of considerable practical llllportance since otherwise the inseam stitches would be so located relatively to the rib that the would not draw the shoe upper to the desired lines of the sole and thus detract from the appearance of the shoe.

In accordance with a further feature of the invention a vulcanized rubber compound sole is provided having a flexible forepart portion of vulcanized rubber and a shank portion of relatively less flexibility. In accordance with a further feature of the invention, the sole comprising the forepart and shank portions which are unitary, is vulcanized in a conformation corresponding approximately to the desired conformation of the solo in the finished shoe. In the illustrated embodiment this is accomplished by molding the sole to the desired conformation as an incident to the vulcanizing of the sole and causing the rubber material of the shank portion of the sole to provide a more advanced de ree of vulcanization than the forepart. s herein shown the shank portion of the sole is rendered less flexible than the forepart portion and is maintained in the longitudinal conformation imparted to it durin molding and vulcanization of the sole, y the incorporation in the shank portion of the sole of a reviousl shaped and vulcanized rubber siank sti ening member. By using a shank stiffening member such as described, the shank portion of the sole, although maintained in the desired conformation, is not rendered so inflexible as to restrict its conformability to a reverse curvature during the attachment of the shoe upper to the sole nor does the shank stiffener interfere with the turnin of the shoe right side out during its manu acture. In the use of a sole constructed in this manner the arched formation of the shoe in the shank is preserved without employing other shank stiffening means in the shoe.

It is to be understood that the term rubher is herein used to designate any of the rubber-like materials used in place of leather for shoe bottoms, including the socalled fiber soles.

Other features of the invention will be apparent from the following description when considered in connection with the accompanying drawing and the invention will then be defined in the claims.

In the drawings,

Figure 1 is a perspective view of a preferred form of the sole of the present invention;

Fig. 2 illustrates in perspective a section through the mold in which the sole is made;

Fig. 3 is a cross section of a portion of a sole illustratin the relation of the parts of the sole after t 1e sole is vulcanized; and

Fig. 4 is a perspective "iew of the completed shoe embodying the present invention.

In the illustrated preferred embodiment of the invention, the sole comprises a body 2 of rubber compound of a suitable thickness and shaped approximately to the shape of a sole. This rubber compound sole ody, as shown, is provided with a raised stitch re- 'ceiving element 4 formed on its upper side and extending completely around the sole, the stitch receiving rib co-nsistin primarily of fibrous material. If pre erred, the stitch receiving element 4 may be terminated on either side of the sole at approximately the heel breast line, in which case it is necessary to attach the heel end of the shoe upper directly to the sole by tacks in the same manner as in a leather sole turn shoe having a nailed seat. The stitch receiving element or sewing rib 4 is located a distance from the edge of the sole blank to provide a feather 6 as in a leather turn sole and it is of suitable proportions to receive a series of single faced stitches 8 such asare universally used in the manufacture of turn shoes to attach the shoe upper to the sole. In the sole illustrated in the drawings, the stitch receiving element for the sole is formed of a layer of firmly woven textile fabric 10 as, for example, heavy canvas, and extends across the upper surface of the solo, the outer edges of the fabric terminating a short distance within the outer edge of the solo on the feather 6. The marginal portions of this fabric layer are so formed on the rubber body as to provide a sewing rib projectin above laterally adjacent portions of the so e, the outer edges of the strip being embedded in the rubber body along the portion which forms the feather of the sole. Conveniently the fabric layer or canvas 10 is applied to the rubber body 2 at the time the sole is molded and before vulcanization whereby the rubber impregnates the textile material and becomes firmly vulcanized to it. It is extremely im )ortant, however, that sulr stantially no ru her be included in the folded portion of the fabric which constitutes the stitch receiving rib. Therefore, the sewing rib is reinforced with an additional fabric layer 12 of textile material, such as canvas, at the time the sole is molded. As illustrated, this fabric layer consists preferably of a substai'itially narrow strip and is adapted to be interposed between the sewin rib 4 and the rubber body whereby the rub er of the sole is prevented from flowing up between the upstanding walls of the sewing rib. This narrow strip of fabric provides additional between-substance for the needle to pass through and effectively insures the stitches of the inseam from being pulled through the inner wall of the sewing rib when the stitches are tensioned. An important advantage in having the reinforce extend over the sewing rib and on to the feather is that both the feather and the striking shoulder of the sewin rib present a firm, fibrous, or, more strict y a fabric surface, in the path of the needle of the sewing machine and, in addition to the fibrous core provided by the fabric or stitch receiving element 4, the tendency of the needle to take a path through the relatively soft rubber body which offers less resistance to the needle is avoided.

Conveniently the fabric layers for the sole are secured in proper position on the rubber body and the sole molded to the desired shape and vulcanized by a mold sucli as illustrated in Fig. 2 of the drawings. In assembling the sole in the mold prior to vulcanization, the layer of fabric 10, which is formed to provide the sewing rib 4, is first laid in the bottom member 14 of the mold and then the narrow fabric strip 12 is laid upon the fabric layer 10 in position for the central portion of the strip to be partly forced into the recess 16 in the mold which forms and shapes the sewing rib 4 on the sole. Preferably, the bottom surface or floor 18 of the mold is slightly convcxed through its portion which forms the shank portion of the sole and the face 18 of the mold which serves to form the feather 6 of the sole is provided with a plurality of transversely disposed indentations 20 to cause the feather of the sole to have similarindentations on the exposed feather of the sole. These 00rrugations or indentations not only insure that the edge of the fabric reinforce will be strongly united and bonded to the rubber body but they serve to cover up the fabric on the feather of the sole after the shoe upper is attached to the shoe and give the effect of a welted leather sole shoe. In a reinforced rubber sole the corrugations serve a new purpose of breaking up the surface of the feather so that the fabric edge is not discoverable which is additional to the purpose served in a leather sole. The rubber body 2 is next placed in the mold as illustrated in Fig. 2 and the top plate 21 of the mold ap plied, the floor 22 of which is eoncaved to correspond to the cOnVeX ortion of the bottom member 14 of the mo d, thus imparting the desired transverse curvature for the shank portion of the sole. Preferably this mold is also shaped to produce a sole which, after being vulcanized, conforms approximately to the desired conformation of the sole in the finished shoe, that is, with the longitudinal curvature of the shank portion of the sole and the transverse curvature of the sole along its ball line as, for example the sole indicated in Fig. 4. By reason of the fact that the forepart and shank portions of the sole are conformed to the desired conformation in the finished shoe b vulcanization, there is substantially no ten ency of the sole to return to a flat condition after the shoe is removed from the last upon which the shoe is made as would occur with a sole which is vulcanized substantially flat as heretofore.

In order that the shank portion of the sole may provide a more adequate support for the arch of the foot than is afforded by the rubber body per se, the shank portion of the solo, in accordance with the present invention, is rendered less flexible than the forepart of the sole. In the illustrated embodiment this is accomplished by providing the shank portion of the sole with a previously vulcanized rubber shank member 241 which may conveniently be placed in proper position in the mold prior to the vulcanization of the sole in which case the rubber shank becomes unitary with the rubber body and by reason of the advanced degree of vulcanization imparted to the rubber shank renders the shank portion of the sole less flexi- 1016 than the forep-art of the sole. Alternatively, this may also be accomplished by subjecting the shank portion of the rubber body 2 to a greater or more advanced degree of vulcanization than the forepart of the body. After the different sole parts are assembled in position in the mold it is subjected to pressure conveniently as an incident to the vulcanization of the solo in a suitable vulcanizing apparatus. This pressure upon the mold causes the fabric layer 10 and the reinforcing layer of fabric 12 to be molded on to the upper side of the rubber body 2 corresponding to the shape of the recess in the bottom member of the mold and the different parts comprising the sole are compressed together to the various surfaces of the mold. During the vulcanization of the sole the rubber body 2 impregnates the various fibers of the fabric mold and securely unites all the fabric layers on the sole together through vulcanization.

The sole produced as above described may be used in the same manner and with the same facility as a leather sole, the shoe upper and the sole being first assembled together on the last in the usual manner. The upper is first lasted over on to the sole as usual and then permanently secured by blind or single faced stitches, the stitches passing through the stitch receiving element 4 and the fabric reinforcing layer 12. Although the shape of the sole is substantially reverse to that which it occupies when the shoe is being made, the resiliency of the material of the sole will enable the sole to conform to the shape of the bottom of the last while the member is being attached without any difliculty and after the sole is removed from the last it will immediately return to its vulcanized condition or shape.

In sewing the upper to the sole, that is, to the sewing rib, the path of the needle, being through material which is primarily of a fibrous or fabric material, prevents the needle from leaving its path and following the less resisting soft rubber body. The upper rib forming layer 12 not only serves to reinforce the stitch receiving rib but it also gives bod to the sole and prevents it from being distorted when the sole is in use. It Wlll be noted that the sewing rib or shoulder for the attachment of the upper to the sole when produced in the manner herein disclosed provides an exceedingly strong and firm connection between the rubber sole and the shoe upper and, consisting primarily of fibrous material, enables a much tighter seamto be produced since the tension of the thread may be regulated and taken up as in a leather sole. Also the disadvantages of having the needle become heated as it does in sewing rubber material is entirely eliminated. Thus a greater number of shoes may be sewed during a given time and it is also effective in preventing the breakage of the thread by reason of the friction of the rubber upon the thread when the stitch is drawn tight.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letlcrs l'at0nt of the United States is:

1. As an article of manufacture, a sole for turn shoes comprising a vulcanized rubher body having a reinforced stitch receiving element molded along its upper marginal surface and consisting chiefly of li-brous material.

2. As an article of manufacture, a sole for turn shoes comprising a rubber body having a reinforced stitch receiving element molded upon its upper surface and consist ing substantially wholly of fabric the edges of which are united to the rubber body portion by vulcanization.

3. As an article of manufacture, a sole for turn shoes comprising a rubber body having a sewing rib on its upper side consisting of a fibrous member embedded in the rubber body with a portion of the said fibrous member projecting above the rubber body and a layer of fibrous material united to the rubber body by vulcanization and formed up over the said raised portion to produce a sewin rib.

4. XS an article of manufacture, a sole for turn shoes comprising a body portion and a fabric reinforcement layer on the upper side of the body having its marginal portion p-rojected upwardly to reduce a substantially all fabric sewing rib, and a second fabric layer underlying the top layer and extending beneath the projected portion of the said top layer.

5. As an article of manufacture, a rubber sole for turn shoes comprising a vulcanized rubber body, a layer of fabric material having its margins embedded in the rubber body and having a longitudinal fold projecting above the surface of the rubber body and a layer of fabric material extending across the upper side of the sole and over the said fold and united to the body by vulcanization.

6. Asan article of manufacture, a sole for turn shoes comprising a rubber body having a stitch receiving element raised from its upper side and comprising a fabric member having its edges embedded in the rubber compound and a portion between its edges projectin above laterally adjacent portions of the re ber body, said stitch receiving element being formed and arranged to present fibrous angular surfaces on both sides of the stitch receiving structure whereby the needle of the sewing machine is prevented from following the relatively softer rubber body.

7. As an article of manufacture, a sole for turn shoes comprising a rubber body having a stitch receiving element raised from its upper side and comprising a fabric member having its edges embedded in the rubber compound and a portion between its edges projecting above laterally adjacent emme portions of the rub-ber body, said stitch receiving element being formed and arranged so as to provide substantially all fibrous material in the path of the needle of the sewing machine when a shoe upper is attached to the sole.

8. As an article of manufacture, a molded and vulcanized turn shoe sole comprising a rubber body and a fabric reinforcement extending across the upper face of the rubber body with its marginal portion projected upwardly above laterally adjacent surfaces of the sole, and a strip of fabric so located between the reinforcement and the rubber body as to have excluded the rubber body from the projected portion of the reinforcement during the moldiir of the sole to produce a substantially albfabric sewing rib.

9. As an article of manufacture, a turn shoe sole comprising a rubber body and a fibrous reinforcement extendin across the upper face of the sole and formed up to roduct a substantially all-fabric sewing rib of the sole, and a strip of fabric extending along the margin of the sole under the rib and with portions extendin laterally from the rib on either side and be ow the path of the sewing needle to guide the needle above the rubber.

10. As an article of manufacture, a turn shoe sole comprising a rubber body and a fibrous reinforcement extending across the upper face of the sole and formed up along ts margin to produce a marginally extending sewing rib for the sole, and means embedded in the rubber body below the base of the sewing rib to prevent the sewing needle from digging into the rubber body.

11. As an article of manufacture, it sole for turn shoes comprising a single vulcanized rubber body having a raised stitch recelving element formed on its upper side adapted to receive and hold single faced stitches, said rubber body being vulcanized to a permanent conformation including a longitudinal curvature corresponding substantially to the desired conformation of the sole in the turned and finished shoe and to a degree of flexibility which will enable it to assume a reverse conformation during the attachment of a shoe upper thereto.

.12. As an article of manufacture, a sole for turn shoes comprising a forepart and a, shank portion of rubber compound, and a raised fibrous stitch receiving element formed upon the upper side of the said forepart and shank portion of the sole, said two portions of the sole having a permanent conformation including a curvature correspond-i ing ap roximately to the desired conformation 0 the sole in the finished shoe and a degree of flexibility which will enable it to assume a reverse conformation during the attachment of a shoe upper thereto.

13. As an article of manufacture, a sole for turn shoes eomprisin a rubber body having a raised fibrous single faced stitch receiving and holding structure formed upon its upper marginal surface and having the shank portion of said sole of less flexibility than the forepart portion of the sole.

14. As an article uf manufacture, a sole for turn shoes comprising a rubber body having a fibrous structure formed upon its upper marginal surface adapted to receive and hold single-faced stitches and having means incorporated in its shank portion constructed and arranged to produce a permanent longitudinal curvature for the shank portion of the sole Without restricting its conformability to a reverse curvature during the manufacture of the shoe therewith.

15. As an article of manufacture, a sole for turn shoes comprising a rubber body having a fibrous structure formed on its upper marginal surface adapted to receive and hold single-faced stitches and having means incorporated in its shank portion constructed and arranged to stiffen the shank portion of the sole relatively to the forepart copies 0! this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the portion without impairing its requirements as a turn sole.

16. As an article ofmanufacturc, a sole for turn shoes comprising a molded and vulcanized rubber body having a fibrous structure formed upon its upper marginal surface adapted to receive and hold singlefaced stitches and having incorporated in its shank portion an element of relatively stiffer material than the rubber body to render the shank portion of the sole less flexibIe than the forepart portion.

17. As an article of manufacture, a sole for turn shoes comprising a molded and vulcanized rubber body and a fabric reinforcement extending across the upper face of the sole with a portion of the fabric projected upwardly above laterally adjacent surfaces of the sole to produce a stitch receivingrib and means located under the fabric reinforcement along the shank portion of the sole constructed and arranged to increase the rigidity of the said shank portion relatively to the forepart of the sole.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

GEORGE FERGUSON.

Commissioner of I'atents,

Washington, D. 0. 

